Arashiyama
Bamboo at first light, then the maple temples under Mount Ogura
Arashiyama is on Kyoto's north-western edge, where Togetsukyo Bridge crosses the Oi River with wooded hills right behind it. You'll want the bridge, Tenryu-ji and the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, and so will everyone else. Go early. Then walk north into Sagano. Its temples line the foot of Mount Ogura, and it's quieter at the far end, which Kyoto's official tourism site calls Okusaga.
Arashiyama has been a beauty spot since the Heian period. Emperor Saga built a country palace here in the early 800s, where Daikaku-ji stands now. Strictly, Arashiyama is the mountain across the river, with Horin-ji halfway up. Most of what you'll see is on the north bank, in Saga, and Sagano runs north from there to Saga-Toriimoto and the old pilgrim road to Atago Shrine.
Plan round the gates. Tenryu-ji opens at 8:30, and most Sagano temples open at 9:00 and stop letting you in by 16:30. There's no charge and no opening hours on the bamboo path, and Kyoto City streams a live camera of it, so you'll know the crowd before you set off. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji shuts on Wednesdays and Saturdays, Saga Tofu Morika on Wednesdays and Shigetsu on Thursdays.
Getting there
JR Sagano Line rapid trains reach Saga-Arashiyama from Kyoto Station in about 11 minutes, 8 minutes' walk from Togetsukyo, or if it's packed, take the subway to Uzumasa Tenjingawa (about 20 minutes) and the Randen tram to Arashiyama (about 15). From downtown, take the Hankyu from Kyoto-Kawaramachi and change at Katsura for Arashiyama.
What to see
Start at Togetsukyo, the 155 m bridge finished in 1934, and walk north to Tenryu-ji. Its subtemple Hogon-in opens only in spring and autumn, for a garden built round a huge lion rock under maples. Leave Tenryu-ji by the north gate and you're in the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. The path runs about 400 m from Nonomiya Shrine, whose torii is oak with the bark left on, to Okochi Sanso, the hillside garden the film star Okochi Denjiro spent 30 years building.
North of the bamboo, the Sagano temples come one after another. Jojakko-ji's steps climb Mount Ogura, and Rakushisha, the thatched hut where Basho wrote his Saga Diary in 1691, is a few minutes away. Gio-ji is a small thatched nunnery with a round window the temple calls the rainbow window. Further up, you'll find about 8,000 stone markers in rows at Adashino Nenbutsu-ji, and at the top of the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji has about 1,200 stone rakan that visitors carved in the 1980s.
North of the JR station, Seiryo-ji keeps a sandalwood Shaka brought from Song China in 987, and Daikaku-ji has Osawa Pond, which the temple calls Japan's oldest surviving garden pond. Across the river, Horin-ji's terrace looks back over Togetsukyo to the city, and Daihikaku Senko-ji sits about 200 steps above the river path, a kilometre upstream. It's one Hankyu stop south to Matsuo Taisha, the sake brewers' shrine.
Where to eat and drink
Lunch is the meal you'll need to plan. Shigetsu serves Tenryu-ji's shojin ryori, Zen cooking with no animal products, from 11:00 to 14:00, and you pay the ¥500 garden fee on top. If you haven't booked, try Arashiyama Yoshimura, two doors west of the bridge's north end. It makes its own soba (from ¥1,440), has an English menu and closes at 16:00 on most weekdays.
In Sagano, Saga Tofu Morika has made tofu since about the 1850s. It's takeaway only, so pick up hirosu fritters or karashi tofu, with very hot mustard hidden inside, for a picnic. At the top of the Saga-Toriimoto road, Ayu Chaya Hiranoya has served tea to pilgrims for about 400 years. You get shinko, twisted rice-flour dumplings, with tea for ¥1,200. Its closing days change monthly, so check its website.
Where to stay
Kyoto City's register of licensed places to stay (end of July 2026) lists 39 within a kilometre of Togetsukyo, and 15 of its 16 ryokan and hotels are within 500 m of the bridge, on both banks. Three of those are company or association retreats. The rest hold the simple-lodging licence that guesthouses, hostels and rented houses use. A couple of minshuku sit further out, near Nison-in and Seiryo-ji.
Stay here if you want the bamboo at first light. Kyoto Station's about 11 minutes away by JR, but getting downtown means changing trains, so if you'd rather walk home from dinner in Gion, sleep downtown.
How to do it in a day
Catch an early JR train and walk the bamboo from Nonomiya Shrine before Tenryu-ji opens at 8:30. After the garden, leave by the north gate for Okochi Sanso (open from 9:00), then do Jojakko-ji, Rakushisha, Nison-in and Gio-ji. If it isn't a Wednesday or a Saturday, carry on up to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji and stop for shinko at Ayu Chaya Hiranoya on your way down.
Walk back to the river for lunch at Arashiyama Yoshimura, then cross Togetsukyo to Iwatayama Monkey Park, which lets you in until 16:00, or climb to Horin-ji's terrace. In the rain, the Fukuda Art Museum takes its last visitors at 16:30. Leave on the Randen, past the Kimono Forest's 600 or so pillars wrapped in Kyo-yuzen fabric. For the Sagano Romantic Train, book online a month ahead, and don't miss the last hourly train from Torokko Saga at 16:02.
Nearby neighbourhoods
The best of Arashiyama
Things to do in Arashiyama
What's on in Arashiyama
Local events in the next 30 days, read from the ward, park and organiser pages each one links to.
Autumn Jusan-mairi at Horin-ji Festival
On now, until 30 Nov · Kokuzo Horin-ji
Children of age 13 by the old count visit for wisdom from 1 October to 30 November; prayers are taken 9:00 to 16:00 without booking.
Prayer from ¥5,000 per week · Map · Source: Kokuzo Horin-ji · 法輪寺 秋の十三まいり
Daikaku-ji Autumn Treasures Exhibition Exhibition
On now, until 7 Dec · Daikaku-ji
A display of Daikaku-ji treasures, including two sets of Five Great Wisdom Kings statues from the Heian period and from the Muromachi and Edo periods.
Map · Source: Daikaku-ji · 秋季名宝展
Hari-kuyo needle memorial at Horin-ji Festival
On now, until 8 Dec · Kokuzo Horin-ji
Worn needles are pushed into konnyaku at 13:00, and a Japanese dance is offered after the service.
Free · Map · Source: Kokuzo Horin-ji · 法輪寺 針供養
Knowing and Enjoying Kyoto Through Paintings Exhibition
On now, until 28 Feb · Saga Arashiyama Museum of Arts and Culture
An exhibition of Nihonga that introduces Kyoto sights, festivals, geiko and Kyoto vegetables, with folding screens of Kyoto and wagashi wrapping paper designs.
¥1,000, combined ticket with Fukuda Art Museum ¥2,300 · 10:00 to 17:00 · Map · Source: Saga Arashiyama Bunkakan · 絵で知る、もっと楽しむ京都
Kamiu-sai brewing prayer rite at Matsuo Taisha Festival
Sun 1 Nov · Matsuo Taisha
The shrine lists the Kamiu-sai brewing prayer rite on 1 November at 11:00.
Map · Source: Matsuo Taisha · 上卯祭(松尾大社)
Monthly zazen at Tenryu-ji Festival
Sun 8 Nov, Sun 13 Dec, Sun 10 Jan · Yuun-an, Tenryu-ji
A 9:00 to 10:00 zazen session on the 2nd Sunday of the month needs no booking and welcomes beginners. A talk (Ryumonkai) follows at 10:00. There are no sessions in February, July or August.
Free · Map · Source: Tenryu-ji · 天龍寺坐禅会
Yugiri memorial at Seiryo-ji Festival
Sun 8 Nov · Seiryo-ji (Saga Shakado)
Seiryo-ji lists the Yugiri memorial on the second Sunday of November at 10:00.
Map · Source: Seiryo-ji (Saga Shakado) · 清凉寺 夕霧供養
Urushi no Hi memorial service at Horin-ji Festival
Fri 13 Nov · Kokuzo Horin-ji
Horin-ji lists the Urushi no Hi service on 13 November from 11:00.
Map · Source: Kokuzo Horin-ji · 法輪寺 うるしの日法要
Horin-ji Autumn Special Opening Exhibition
14 to 29 Nov · Horin-ji
A special opening of Horin-ji with unveiled seated statues of Amida, Yakushi and Shaka Nyorai, all Important Cultural Properties.
Map · Source: Kyoto Heritage Preservation Association · 宝林寺
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