Neighbourhood

Hanamikoji-dori

Gion, Kyoto

Wooden teahouses lining Hanamikoji-dori in Gion with visitors on the street
Photo: Laurent de Walick / Flickr (CC BY 2.0)

Hanamikoji runs south from Shijo-dori through Gion Kobu, the largest of Kyoto's five geiko districts, between teahouses that kept their old fronts. The power lines went underground and the stone paving went down in the 2001 financial year. The street leads to the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo, where the district's geiko and maiko dance the Miyako Odori every April.

Nearest station Gion-Shijo (Keihan)
Cost Free
Time needed 30 min
Best time Dusk

Insider tip

Don't stop, touch, follow or photograph a geiko or maiko without asking. The district's own rules say so, and a resident's report can bring the police. Stay out of private property, which here means anything that isn't a shop or the road, and keep to the edge, since cars use the street too. Look for red lanterns with linked dumplings on them, Gion Kobu's crest.

6. Gion, early and again at dusk. Yasaka Shrine's grounds never close, and Chion-in, just beyond Maruyama Park, opens its grounds free at 6:00. Come back at dusk for Hanamikoji-dori and the canal at Gion Shirakawa. Don't stop, touch, follow or photograph a geiko or maiko without asking. The district's own rules say so. And stay out of anything that isn't a shop or the road.

Gion grew up as the town at the gate of Yasaka Shrine, and it's still where Kyoto's geiko and maiko live and work. Its teahouses line Hanamikoji-dori, and north of Shijo-dori the machiya of Gion Shirakawa face the canal. Stay here and you can do the shrine first thing and the streets at dusk without a train either time.

14. In Gion, leave the geiko alone. Don't stop, touch, follow or photograph a geiko or maiko without asking. You can't take photos in many parts of Gion, some private alleys included, and on Hanamikoji-dori you keep to the edge, since cars use it. To see maiko dance, book Gion Corner (18:00 and 19:00, ¥5,500).

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Upcoming events within a ten-minute walk of Hanamikoji-dori, from the weekly Kyoto events calendar.

Performance

Onshukai Recital of Gion Kobu

祇園甲部 温習会

1 to 6 Oct (dates to be confirmed) Gion Kobu Kaburenjo, Gion

Station Gion-Shijo (Keihan), 8 min walk

Gion Kobu's geiko and maiko dance the Inoue-school Kyomai handed down since the Edo period, with a different programme on each of the six days.

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Performance ¥5,000 to ¥8,000 (students ¥3,000)

Miyako Odori

都をどり

1 to 30 Apr Gion Kobu Kaburenjo, Gion

Time 12:30, 14:30 and 16:30 daily (the 12:30 show on 23 and 24 April is booked out) Station Gion-Shijo (Keihan Line), about 8 min walk from exit 6

Gion Kobu's geiko and maiko dance through the four seasons in one act without the curtain once coming down, with geiko singing and playing shamisen on one side of the stage and maiko on flutes and drums on the other. The ¥8,000 ticket includes tea, served from an hour before the show.

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Festival

Kotohajime New Year Preparations in Gion

事始め

13 Dec Gion, Gion

Time From about 10:00

Geiko and maiko carry mirror rice cakes to their teachers to greet them as New Year preparations begin. Most visible from about 10:00 in Gion.

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Anime and games ¥9,500 to ¥21,000

Ninja Show NARUTO at Minamiza

忍劇「NARUTO-ナルト-」

1 Feb to 30 Jun Minamiza, Gion

Time 19:00 on 1 and 2 February, then 15:00 and 19:00, no shows on Mondays Station Gion-Shijo (Keihan Line), right outside exit 6

A long-run Naruto ninja show with no dialogue, so you don't need any Japanese: live action, acrobatics, aerial work and projection mapping, using every bit of stage machinery in Kyoto's old kabuki theatre. It follows Naruto's boyhood story in the Hidden Leaf Village and runs from February to June.

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The facade of the Minamiza kabuki theatre hung with actor signboards and a red lantern kajikawa, CC BY 3.0

Smaller local events nearby

  • Gion Corner evening shows (March to November) Performance

    Every day from 12 March to 30 November, 18:00 and 19:00. Next: Fri 23 Oct · Gion Corner at Gion Kobu Kaburenjo

    A one-hour introduction to Kyoto arts with Kyomai dance, tea ceremony, flower arranging, koto, bugaku and kyogen, plus bunraku or Noh depending on the season.

    ¥5,500 adults, ¥3,850 age 16 to 22, ¥3,300 age 7 to 15 (premium seat ¥6,600, tea ceremony seat ¥6,050) · 18:00 and 19:00 · Map · Source: Ookini Foundation (Gion Corner) · ギオンコーナー 定期公演

  • Bugaku Dance Offering at Yasaka Shrine Performance

    Tue 3 Nov · Yasaka Shrine, Gion

    Bugaku court dance performed by the Yasaka Gagaku Kai in front of the shrine's dance hall, free for anyone to watch.

    Free · 12:00 · Map · Source: Yasaka Shrine · 舞楽奉納

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Tonight's gigs across Kyoto

The teahouse streets below Yasaka Shrine, best early or at dusk

Gion grew up as the town at the gate of Yasaka Shrine, and it's still where Kyoto's geiko and maiko live and work. Gion Kobu, the largest of the city's five geiko districts, keeps its teahouses along Hanamikoji-dori, and the Shirakawa canal runs through Gion Shinbashi to the north. Go early for the shrine and the temples behind it. Come back at dusk for the streets.

Gion has 25 places on the Roam Kyoto map: 6 shrines and temples, 4 shops, 4 neighbourhoods, 3 cafes, 2 landmarks, 2 restaurants, 1 bar, 1 museum, 1 park or garden and 1 bathhouse. Read the Gion guide.

How do I get to Hanamikoji-dori?
The nearest station is Gion-Shijo (Keihan). Hanamikoji-dori is in Gion, Kyoto.
How much does Hanamikoji-dori cost?
Nothing. Hanamikoji-dori is free to visit.
How long do you need at Hanamikoji-dori?
Plan for 30 min.
When is the best time to visit Hanamikoji-dori?
Dusk.

Stay near Hanamikoji-dori

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