Higashiyama

What to see

Kiyomizu-dera's main hall, rebuilt in 1633, sits on a wooden stage about 13 metres high, held up by 18 zelkova pillars without a single nail. Jishu Shrine isn't open, as it's been under restoration since August 2022. Downhill, the 46-metre Yasaka Pagoda is free to see from Yasaka-dori, and a few steps away, Yasaka Koshindo's charm is the kukurizaru, a monkey with its hands and feet tied. You give up one desire in return for a wish.

On Shichijo-dori, all 1,001 Kannon statues in Sanjusangendo are National Treasures. Next door, Yogen-in's corridor ceilings are Fushimi Castle floorboards still marked with the blood of soldiers who took their own lives there in 1600. It doesn't open every day, so check its Instagram. The Kyoto National Museum has The Tale of Genji until 29 November 2026 (¥2,200), and Chishaku-in's treasure hall always shows the panels by Hasegawa Tohaku and his studio.

In between, Rokuharamitsu-ji's treasure hall (¥700) has a statue of the monk Kuya with six small Amida Buddhas coming out of his mouth as he chants. Nearby, Rokudo Chinnoji keeps the well the courtier Ono no Takamura is said to have used to reach the underworld every night. You'll find Sakamoto Ryoma's grave up the hill at Kyoto Ryozen Gokoku Shrine (¥300, cash only).

Where to eat and drink

You can't eat on Kiyomizu-dera's grounds (a drink with a lid is fine), so save lunch for the way down. Ukiya Kiyomizu Kisseian makes soba by hand in a Taisho-era storehouse facing Sannenzaka, with the Kyo-yuba set at ¥1,450 and cold soba with tempura at ¥1,880. You can't book a table. Bunnosuke Chaya has served amazake since 1909, and adds shaved ice in summer and grilled mitarashi dango in winter.

Shichimiya Honpo has been on the corner of Sannenzaka since 1655, and its shichimi goes easy on the heat. Get the sansho too. Asahido has a cafe, Saryo Kiraku, above its pottery shop. In Shichijo Kanshundo's class (¥3,300, for two or more, booked ahead) you'll shape four namagashi and whisk your own matcha. Most places close by 18:00, so eat dinner in Gion, a walk north, unless there's a light-up and Ukiya reopens 17:00 to 20:00.

Where to stay

Stay on these slopes and you'll be able to walk to Kiyomizu-dera for the 6:00 opening. Kyoto's tourism site splits the city's stays into ryokan, Western-style hotels and unique stays like machiya, wooden townhouses renovated for the night. Wherever you book, check how far up the hill it is. Keihan's Kiyomizu-Gojo Station is at the bottom, about 25 minutes' walk below the temple.

It suits early risers, night-viewing visitors and anyone who'd rather have a calm evening than a bar crawl. It's harder with heavy bags. The lanes near the top are stepped, Kiyomizu-zaka is closed to cars from 8:00 to 19:00, and the city bus route to Gojozaka is often congested. Check kyoto.travel's congestion forecast and live camera for Gion and Kiyomizu before you go.

How to do it in a day

Skip Mondays (unless it's a holiday), when Kawai Kanjiro's House, Ukiya Kiyomizu Kisseian and the Kyoto National Museum close. Be at Kiyomizu-dera for 6:00, then walk down Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka before the shops open. Rokuharamitsu-ji's treasure hall opens at 9:00 and Kawai Kanjiro's House at 10:00. Walk back up Gojozaka, buy shichimi at Shichimiya Honpo and be at Ukiya when it opens at 11:00.

Have warabimochi at Bunnosuke Chaya, then head down to Shichijo-dori. On the 8th, 18th or 28th there's a market at Toyokuni Shrine unless it rains. Give Sanjusangendo 45 minutes, and on an open day get to Yogen-in before its 14:30 last entry. Chishaku-in's last entry is 16:00. On a Friday, finish at the Kyoto National Museum, open to 20:00.